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The post New Gear Alert: Mini Flash, Maxi Fun! iT20/22 from Godox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Introducing iT20/iT22 iFlash Camera Flash. 45g Ultra-compact body with TTL function, perfect for both indoor and outdoor use, easily fits in your pocket for anytime creativity. Innovative magnetic accessories for quick light effect switching, creating unique atmospheres and creative possibilities.

Smart TTL, Effortless Results
Say goodbye to complex setups. Our mini TTL flash delivers perfect lighting instantly, empowering you to shoot faster and smarter.

45g Ultra-Compact Design
Its featherlight build takes up minimal space, ensuring you’re always prepared to seize life’s precious moments.

One-Touch M/TTL Mode Switching
Toggle between manual and TTL modes instantly via a dedicated button. The high-definition display shows clear, real-time settings for rapid adjustments.

Magnetic Accessories: Creativity Unleashed
Equipped with magnetic snap-on diffusers, color filters (CTO/CTB), creative gels, and honeycomb grids, the iT20/iT22 transforms light in seconds. Experiment with atmospheric effects and craft distinctive visual stories.

700+ Flashes & 1.5s Recycling
Shoot uninterrupted with 1.5-second recycle times at full power and a remarkable 700-flash battery endurance.

Precise Power Control
Adjust flash intensity across 6 stops (1/32 to 1/1 power) in precise ±1/3-step increments for total command over your lighting.

Lightweight Lithium Battery

The built-in lithium battery charges swiftly via USB-C—keeping your creativity powered through extended shoots.

Elevate your flash—literally

The Optional TR TTL Hot Shoe Riser lifts your flash by 30mm, ensuring better clearance from the frame edge when using wide or protruding lenses. Compatible with Canon E-TTL II, Nikon i-TTL, Sony, Fujifilm, OM System and Panasonic TTL systems, it supports both auto flash and High-Speed Sync (HSS) functions. A 0-90° tilt adjustment gives you the flexibility to shoot with direct or bounce flash.

*Recommended for use with Godox camera flashes under 300g for optimal balance and stability.

What’s in the box

Optional

The post New Gear Alert: Mini Flash, Maxi Fun! iT20/22 from Godox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. As a brand hailing from Britain, Nothing has been around since 2020, and the Phone 3 is its first true flagship aimed at taking on the best in the industry.

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The post Are Lens Filters Still Relevant in the Age of “Fix It in Post”? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

In this, the age of “I’ll just put a filter on it in post” are lens filters still relevant?

In the era of Lightroom presets, AI-enhanced editing, and Photoshop wizardry, it’s easy to assume that physical lens filters are obsolete. “I’ll just fix it in post” has become the battle cry of a generation of photographers—both amateurs and professionals alike.

But are we missing something?

Why Filters Still Matter

Let’s be clear: post-processing tools are more powerful than ever. You can simulate everything from graduated neutral density (ND) effects to polarisation with just a few sliders and layers. But the truth is, filters—especially high-quality ones—still offer something digital can’t quite replicate: real-world optical control.

Here’s where physical filters, like those from OKKO, come into their own.

What Makes OKKO Filters Worth Talking About?

OKKO are a Kiwi brand making a name for themselves in the world of affordable, premium lens filters. They offer a range of filters—UV, CPL (circular polariser), ND, and variable ND—built with solid materials, minimal colour cast, and modern coating tech. Their sweet spot? A solid balance of performance and price, without veering into the eye-watering territory of $300+ filters.

Get OKKO Filters on sale on Amazon

Here’s why OKKO Filters are still very much relevant:

1. You Can’t Post-Process What Was Never Captured

No amount of Photoshop can bring back detail in blown-out skies or remove glare from a car window. A CPL filter, like the OKKO Pro Circular Polariser, physically cuts out reflected light, saturates skies, and lets you shoot through glass or water without distracting reflections.

2. ND Filters = Creative Freedom

Neutral Density filters reduce the amount of light hitting your sensor, letting you drag the shutter and create silky waterfalls, smooth clouds, or isolate subjects with motion blur—even in broad daylight. OKKO’s variable ND filters offer flexible light control in a single filter, ideal for both photographers and video shooters.

3. Lens Protection Without Image Degradation

Sure, you can slap a $5 UV filter on your $2,000 lens, but why compromise image quality? OKKO’s UV filters use optical glass with nano-coatings to protect your front element from scratches, dust, and the occasional toddler fingerprint—without softening your shots.

4. They’re Lightweight, Rugged, and Affordable

OKKO filters are made with aircraft-grade aluminium and Japanese optical glass. The build feels premium, but the price tag doesn’t make your wallet cry. You get that “buy well, buy once” peace of mind without the premium-brand markup.

Real Filters for Real Shooters

Are lens filters still relevant in 2025? Absolutely—especially when you’re after better in-camera results, protection, or creative effects that editing alone can’t match.And if you’re in the market, OKKO Filters are a solid place to start. Whether you’re capturing landscapes, filming content on the go, or just protecting your glass, these filters quietly deliver. No hype. Just good gear.

The post Are Lens Filters Still Relevant in the Age of “Fix It in Post”? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

In May, vintage-inspired analog camera company Reto announced the Reto Pano, a reusable point-and-shoot camera with both an ultra-wide lens and the promise of being able to switch freely between standard 35mm film aspect ratio and panoramic mid-roll. It got my attention.

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The post Digital Photography School on Twitter appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Today Digital Photography School has made the leap into a new online medium – Twitter.

UPDATE: 

So I was just browsing older articles here on dPS, and came across this gem, remember when Twitter was called Twitter… oh, err, I mean ‘X’ – whatever, you know what I mean! Well we are STILL on X (Twitter) and we’re also on Facebook, we have a private Facebook Group AND we even have an Instagram and Threads account. Do you follow us on any of them / all of them?

Which leads me to my next question, do you share your photography on social media? We would love you to share a link to where you share your work, online, in the comments below!

For those of you who don’t know Twitter – it is a social site that enables people to share short messages with their followers. It’s known as ‘micro-blogging’ because you only get 140 characters to write your message. There are millions of people ‘Twittering’ – it’s fun and quite addictive.

So today we started the Digital Photography School Twitter account.

It’s a place where we’ll post messages when we update our blog, announce new assignments in our forums, ask photography questions, take your questions and suggestions.

To follow the account just signup as a Twitter user and then ‘follow’ us.

The post Digital Photography School on Twitter appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

The post 5 Ways to Create More Artistic Photos (Fast!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Looking back at this article from Jaymes, maybe all in one long post it can be a little overwhelming, what about if you were to write down the five points and then tackle them one at a time?

• Use minimalism to improve your compositions

• Add split toning to enhance the colors

• Decrease the depth of field for a softer look

• Look at the work of good photographers for inspiration

• Lengthen your shutter speeds for more abstract photos

Each of the points above are explained in detail below – one at a time, create a photograph employing the points above. Share a result or all five results in our private Facebook group!

Updated 2025 by Simon ?

Are you looking to create more artistic photos? Do you feel like your photos need a bit of an upgrade?

You’re not alone.

This type of struggle is one that most photographers feel at one point or another. I’ve felt it myself, which is why I developed several methods for increasing the artistry in my own photography.

And I’m going to share these methods with you today.

So if you’re looking to add a level of creative and artistic flair to your photos, keep reading.

300mm, 1/1250 sec, f/6.3, ISO 200

1. Use minimalism to improve your compositions

Creating more artistic photos can start by changing up your compositions.

Because here’s the thing:

After doing photography for a bit, you start to fall into compositional patterns. You’ll take the same type of photo, over and over again. You may not even realize it.

So in order to take things to the next level…

…you should make a strong effort to break free of your compositional patterns.

One of my favorite ways to do that is with minimalism. Minimalism involves using lots of negative space, while also positioning your subject toward the edges of the frame.

400mm, 1/320 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400

For instance, a minimalistic photographer might take a single plant and place it down at the very top or bottom of the frame, while the rest of the scene stays primarily white:

100mm, 1/125 sec, f/2.8, ISO 320

Minimalism is great, and one of the things I love most about it is how it feels so different from normal compositional techniques. Once you start thinking minimalist, your whole outlook can change.

And your photos will start to look far more artistic.

2. Add split toning to enhance the colors

If you’re looking to increase the artistry in your photos, ask yourself:

How am I doing with color?

Because color is one of the most neglected aspects of photography, despite its important role in most photos.

Color adds contrast, creates harmony and disharmony, and evokes different moods.

(All in a wonderfully subtle way!)

Now, one aspect of improving the use of color in your photography involves looking for interesting color combinations when out shooting.

But you can also make changes after you’ve finished your photoshoots.

More specifically, split toning will allow you to add a bit of mood and contrast to your photos.

Here’s a photo with a bit of split toning to deepen the yellow highlights and the green shadows:

90mm, 1/160 sec, f/9.0, ISO 320

Basically, a split tone just involves putting one color cast in the highlights of your photo and one color cast in the shadows of your photo. Cold shadows and warm highlights are pretty common, so you could easily go with a blue/yellow split-tone combination. But you should also experiment with other possibilities to make things as artistic (and interesting!) as possible.

Note that pretty much every RAW photo editor offers split toning in one form or another. So no matter your preferred post-processing software, you’ll be able to add some color!

3. Decrease the depth of field for a softer look

This is one of my personal favorites for making photos more artistic:

Bringing down that depth of field.

With a shallow depth of field, you can create all sorts of interesting effects: Stunning background bokeh, soft subjects, and even abstract-type images.

50mm, 1/2000 sec, Freelensed, ISO 250

Now, to create a shallow depth of field look, you’ll need to use a lens with a wide maximum aperture (something in the area of f/1.2 to f/2.8 is best). You’ll also want a lens of at least 50mm, and you’ll want to get close to your subject, if possible. The closer you are to your subject, the better the soft-focus effect.

Note that it can be difficult to focus when working at such a wide aperture. So you may need to switch your lens over to manual, in order to ensure you nail focus every time.

To add additional interest, you might try positioning a light source in the background, so that you can create cool bokeh, like this:

90mm, 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 320

I’d also recommend thinking about your subject a bit differently. Don’t envision the subject as a single entity; instead, look for shapes and lines that you can use for a more powerful composition. That way, you’ll be able to use the soft-focus effect for more artistic, abstract-style images.

4. Look at the work of good photographers for inspiration

If you’re the type of person who likes to get out and practice photography, you may grumble at this suggestion. After all, practice makes perfect, right?

But it’s important to realize that it’s hard to know what perfect would mean…

…if you haven’t ever seen it.

That’s why I urge you to look at the work of photographers you admire. Do it all the time. If you like, you can simply look at photographers in your favorite genres.

One of the photographers whose work I view over and over again is Jess Findlay. While he and I gravitate toward different subjects, his work serves as a constant inspiration to me.

Or you can expand your horizons, looking for photographers in many different areas.

(In fact, I like to look at work that’s not in my areas of interest; I find that it gives me fresh ideas that would’ve never occurred to me if I’d stuck to my preferred genres.)

When you look at photography that you like, ask yourself:

What is it that makes this work special? What is it that makes it so artistic?

Then come up with some ideas for incorporating that level of artistry into your own work. Don’t copy blindly, but try to pull out bits and pieces of wisdom that you can use to enhance your own photos.

For instance, if you notice that a photographer likes to shoot from a low angle, start shooting from a low angle yourself.

If you notice that a photographer loves to juxtapose two contrasting subjects, try juxtaposing some contrasting subjects yourself.

Just give it a try. My guess is that you’ll notice improvements in your own photos pretty quickly.

And then you won’t want to stop looking at other photos!

5. Lengthen your shutter speeds for more abstract photos

Here’s a final, practical tip for creating more artistic photos:

Use creatively long shutter speeds.

For instance, photograph moving a flower, but drop the shutter speed way down, so you get a cool blur effect.

And then move your camera around, even as you’re taking the photo. That’ll give you an even more interesting abstract:

100mm, 1/6 sec, f/2.8, ISO 250

Personally, I love doing handheld abstracts with long shutter speeds. Sure, they take a lot of experimentation, but they’re also very liberating. And they’re great for situations where the light is too low to get sharp shots handheld and you don’t want to use a tripod.

Now, to pull off this type of abstract image, you’ll need to put your camera in Manual mode (or Shutter Priority) and drop the shutter speed until it reaches 1/10s to 1s (or longer). Then, as you hit the shutter button, move your camera. I’d recommend aligning the movement with compositional elements in your scene (e.g., if there are trees in the scene, move the camera along the tree trunks).

You’ll end up with some very artistic blurs!

Five ways to make your photography more artistic: Conclusion

Hopefully, you now know a few easy ways to make your photos more artistic.

After all, capturing artistic photos doesn’t have to be hard…

…it just involves changing things up!

So try some of the ideas I’ve suggested, and see how things go. I bet you’ll like the result!

300mm, 1/400 sec, f/6.3, ISO 320

Do you have ideas for creating more artistic photos? Share them in the comments!

The post 5 Ways to Create More Artistic Photos (Fast!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

The post Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

I think this sits firmly in the “make photography fun again” camp – not that it isn’t fun, but you know, it’s pretty easy to get into a proverbial slump sometimes.

So the team at Clickster Camera sent us across this little gem to have a play with! It’s a super-simple digital camera, but, it has NO screen! It comes with a memory card and you can shoot a couple of thousand frames before you need to empty the card. It’s kinda like a modern day point and shoot film camera, but you don’t need to send it off to be developed.

The fun, for me at least, is that you take it out for a day, you make all of your photographs, and then, when the time is right, you plug it into your computer and ‘see what you got!’ that anticipation of not knowing, you don’t get to review in camera, you don’t get to check it out via your phone – you have to wait!

It’s as simple as this, here’s pretty much everything in the instruction manual for the Clickster Camera – It has an off/on button, a shutter release button, a USB-C plug for charging and getting your photos off. Right next to the USB-C port you will find an ‘M’ button as well as a + and – They’re for setting the date on your camera. There’s a button on the back where the little digital display is, that is the mode button – you have three options, Mono, Retro and Classic, and if you hold that button in it turns the beepy sound off / on. On the front of the camera (the photo up the top) you can also see the LED flash on/off button.

All you have on the display is what mode you’re in, your battery life (around 500 frames, that’s a lot!) as well as how many frames you’ve taken and the sound on or off icon – again, simples!

It’s a dead simple camera, very easy to use in good light, less than ideal results in the dark unless you’re on a tripod, but then (for subjects in close) you use the flash and you’re cooking with gas, well, LED, but you get me…

Pretty much child-proof and only $120 – well worth a shot! Enough of my rambling! Check out this little video from our friend Andy on his time with the Clickster Camera! (Sub to his Youtube while you’re at it)

Do we think the Clickster is better than the Fujifilm? Well that all depends, doesn’t it? You could grab one and try it out for yourself!

We found them online in Australia for $119 at Teds, Camera House etc, a quick Google should have you up and running.

The post Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

The post What’s the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

I’ve been fortunate enough to have been using the new lens for the last few days, thanks to Blonde Robot, Australia’s Tamron distributor ?? While I haven’t had a chance to take it out and spend some time with it yet (hope to over the next few days) I went to the EV Show here in Melbourne and took it along – It’s true of any wide lens, you can warp reality if you try just a little bit! So I had some fun being creative with fast electric cars.

I thought I’d share this video from Michael Ronin (I can confirm he did give the lens back haha) as he takes the ultra-wide and walks you through it in his video. Enjoy!

Do you think an ultra-wide has a place in your camera bag? Do you already have an ultra-wide? Tell us in the comments.

You can learn more about the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 lens on the Tamron Australia website.

The post What’s the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

The post 8 Tips for Stunning Street Photography Silhouettes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Valerie Jardin.

Have you worked out how best to photograph a silhouette yet? We’d love you to give it a try and post your results in the comments! I guess this is ‘street’ I was in the right place to capture a whole bunch of young people running across a street to a concert – that was a fun day! Updated July 2025

Street photography silhouettes are eye-catching, not to mention beautiful. But beginners often struggle to achieve great results – the kinds of compositions that feature clear main subjects, complementary backgrounds, and gorgeous light.

Here’s the good news:

Creating silhouettes on the street is a lot easier than you think. I’ve been doing it for years, and in this article, I share everything you need to know for amazing results! Specifically, I explain:

• The best types of light for great images
• How to create breathtaking compositions with minimal effort
• A few quick post-processing tricks to level up your shots
• Much more!

Let’s dive right in.

1. Shoot in the right light

For the best silhouettes, you must shoot a dark subject against a well-lit background – which means that the more contrasty the lighting, the better.

You may have heard that great photographers only ever shoot in the morning and the evening (during the golden hours). But when it comes to street photography, nothing could be further from the truth.

Instead, many street photographers love to shoot in the middle of the day, when the sun is high overhead and produces harsh light. The harsh light ensures that certain subjects are powerfully lit, while the high lighting angle creates plenty of interesting shadows (especially in cities with tall buildings).

And shadows are the best friend of the silhouette street photographer.

Why? Because if you can find a bright background, and then – just in front of the background – is a shadow, subjects who walk by will be darkened by the shadow and silhouetted against the bright background.

Of course, you can capture great results when the sun is lower in the sky. An evening sun can produce long shadows (so you can create the same effect discussed above). Plus, if you shoot during the golden hours, you can angle your camera so that your subject is silhouetted against a breathtaking sunset.

If you’re after silhouettes, I’d encourage you to avoid photographing on cloudy days, though. Clouds soften the light and limit contrast. (If you’re dead set on capturing silhouettes, try shooting indoors, where you can use the contrast between your subject and a window to get a beautiful result!)

2. Choose the perfect camera settings

To shoot a street photography silhouette, you must take control of your camera. Silhouettes require radical underexposure, so work in Manual mode (so you can choose your settings independently) or Aperture Priority (so you can underexpose via exposure compensation).

Make sure your flash is turned off, then – if you have the time – take some test shots of your scene. You’ll want to keep adjusting the exposure until your foreground subjects are completely black; add negative exposure compensation or boost the shutter speed.

A timesaving trick here is to point your camera at the bright area behind the subject, lock the exposure settings, recompose, and capture your shot. That way, your camera will expose for the background and render the foreground black. Make sense?

Another option is to set your camera to its spot metering mode, then meter off the brightest area behind the subject.

(If you leave your camera to its own devices, it’ll often try to expose for your subject. The result will include far too much detail in the subject and blow out the highlights in the background.)

Make sure you carefully focus on your silhouetted subject. If you’re struggling to lock onto your subject, you can try switching over to manual focus. To give yourself room for error, narrow the aperture to f/8 or so for a deeper depth of field.

3. Don’t be afraid to blow out the highlights

Some street photography silhouettes rely on highlight detail. Subjects captured against a rising or setting sun, for instance, can feature beautiful background clouds that add plenty of color and atmosphere.

That said…

Sometimes you can let the highlights blow out for a more dramatic effect.

In other words, you can subtly adjust your exposure to create a bright-white background, like this:

To get this effect, you’ll need to make sure your subject is sufficiently shaded and your background is sufficiently bright. You need real contrast. If you’re outdoors, try to find a bright white background and wait for a subject to walk by; if you’re inside, look for larger windows that’ll offer plenty of brightness.

And aim to set your exposure somewhere between the shaded subject and well-lit background. You can expose for the subject but drop the exposure a few stops, or you can expose for the background but raise the exposure a few stops. (If you’re not sure which method you prefer, try both!)

4. Capture the right outline

Great street photos don’t include just any silhouette. Instead, they feature silhouettes that:

• Are well-defined
• Have a recognizable shape
• Do not have any additional items (such as signs) protruding from the main outline

What’s important here is that the viewer can clearly tell the silhouette is created by a person. Therefore, it’s best to shoot subjects that are facing sideways (so that their nose and chin are visible) or forward (so that you can see their arms, legs, and head), and it’s important to avoid letting the silhouette overlap with other silhouetted objects, such as street scenes or even other people.

For an even more dynamic image, capture subjects in mid-stride or mid-gesture:

To get the best results with moving subjects, you’ll need to be fast. Raise your camera to your eye a few seconds before the subject walks by, then hit the shutter button just as they take a step!

5. Avoid obstructions

The best silhouette street photos contain an unobstructed view of the subject. In other words, the image should have no foreground or background elements that cross the subject, such as posts, signs, other people, or cars.

Why is this important?

Good silhouettes feature clear outlines. But if elements cross your subject, the outline will become confusing, and the viewer will struggle to interpret the shot.

So before you take an image, glance across the entire composition. Ask yourself: Do I see any problematic elements that could muddy up the silhouette? If so, see if you can fix the problem by moving a few feet to the left or the right. You can also try dropping down low – or, if you’re shooting a moving element, you could simply wait until it changes position.

When capturing the image below, I waited until the woman with the suitcase walked between the posts. Then I fired the shutter!

6. Add in a creative effect or two

If you want to take your street photos to the next level, don’t just achieve a solid silhouette outline and call it a day. Instead, strive to incorporate creative effects into your shots!

For instance, by stopping down your lens aperture and positioning the sun along the edge of an object, you can create a beautiful sunburst:

Another option is to shoot with flowers or leaves close to your camera, then use a wide aperture to create a pleasing blur.

I’d also encourage you to change up your angle. By getting down low, you can make your silhouetted subject loom over the viewer – and by getting up high, you can capture wider street scenes that feature all sorts of action.

7. Try a minimalist approach

Minimalism refers to a compositional approach that includes plenty of negative space. The subject is often small in the frame, like this:

And because silhouette scenes tend to lack lots of detail and because the main subject is generally so eye-catching, they lend themselves well to a minimalist approach.

The key here is to find a scene that offers plenty of negative space. Look for buildings with bright windows, stretches of ocean with silhouetted passersby, and bridges that you can photograph from below.

Get into position. Make sure to compose so that you include lots of empty space around the subject. Test out a few compositions if you have the time, just so you can get a sense of what works and what doesn’t.

Then, when the right subject walks through the area, take a shot! The small silhouetted person will anchor the composition, and you’ll end up with a beautifully minimalistic street photo.

8. Enhance your silhouette in post-processing

Great street photos start in the field. If you don’t get the camera settings right, the composition right, and the lighting right, then your shots just won’t look good no matter how much time you spend on editing.

However, once you’ve captured a good silhouette in the field, you can certainly enhance it with a bit of post-processing. (And if you work in RAW – which I highly recommend! – then processing is a necessary part of your photography workflow anyway.)

Start by tweaking the exposure and the white balance. Make sure you have the overall look that you’re after, then dive into your heavier editing options. Boosting the contrast is generally a good move. If you find that your subject includes too much detail but you don’t want to tweak the highlights, try dropping the blacks or the shadows; conversely, if you like the look of your subject but you want to brighten the background, try boosting the whites or the highlights.

You might also play with different saturation values. And if you want to create a very unique effect, consider adding some sort of color grade. At the end of the day, this is about personal preference – so you won’t know what works until you try it!

Street photography silhouettes: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re capable of capturing outstanding street silhouettes.

Just remember the tips I’ve shared, make sure you spend plenty of time out with your camera, and have fun experimenting!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

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The post 8 Tips for Stunning Street Photography Silhouettes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Valerie Jardin.

The post ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

The team over at ProGrade sent us their ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD to try out!

ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD

The ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD is a compact, high-speed external drive designed to fit seamlessly into ProGrade’s existing workflow system. It features USB 4.0 and suggests up to 4,000 MB/s read speeds and 3,500 MB/s write speeds, which, if you know much about file transfer speeds, is pretty darn quick! So even the largest files from the most modern digital cameras are no match… Super quick! I ran a quick test with the Black Magic disk speed test software and it did very well!

Real world? It’s much faster when connected to my little Mac Mini M4 than any other disk I currently own, including my other 2tb SSD. The USB 4.0 really does the trick.

What are the main features?

• Blazing Speeds: Well obviously speed is a big factor here, SSD via USB 4.0, if your computer can handle it, is going to be the driving force behind most people purchasing this little guy.
• Sustained Performance: An import via my ProGrade card readers directly into the ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: certainly moved the regular bottle-neck of file import away from the saving to disk part of the process! 400 90mb RAW files from my Sony a7R imported smoothly and quickly. – USB 4.0 interface provides transfer rates of up to 40Gb/s (5GB/s)
• Compact Design: Big in performance, small in footprint? ProGrade PG10.5 is well about 3″ or 70mm square, oh, and it’s magnetic, so you can attach it to things (Like the Prograde Pro Hub) as well as the included stick-on metal plate that you adhere to (for example) your laptop lid so it can be fixed there while you’re working on the go.
• Durability: A sturdy little beastie, the Pro Mini SSD is X-Ray and Shock proof (I still won’t loan it to my 15yo…!) and also comes with a very sturd feeling, certified high-speed USB4 cable.

So who is it for?

• Beginner to Intermediate Photographers: If you’re transitioning from basic storage solutions and require faster, more reliable storage for larger files, the PG10.5 is a worthy investment.
• On-the-Go Professionals: Its compact size and rugged design make it perfect for photographers who frequently travel or work on location. If I was still a music photographer, this thing would LIVE in my bag – perfoect form factor, speed and damage resistant.
• Workflow Integration: Like me, if you already use the ProGrade readers (I use the SD and MicroSD for my drone) the PG10.5 is a no brainer to keep everything all in the one place.

Pros & Cons?

• Price Point: While offering top-tier performance, the PG10.5 comes at a premium price, which might be a consideration for those on a tight budget – After weeks of solid use, the SSD hasn’t skipped a beat and continually surprises me with its speed – you get what you pay for I guess!
• Platform Compatibility: Compatible with Thunderbolt 4, Thunderbolt 3, USB 3.2, and 3.1 Type-C ports

My final thoughts

The ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD is a high end solution for those wanting to “do it well, do it once” it isn’t cheap by comparison to some external storage solutions, but it does offer excellent speed, form factor and also has a 3 year warranty.

The post ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.